I am currently designing a new sock for men. I wanted something that was somewhat generic, but that men would wear. I talked with my youngest son. He said it’s all about color, not fancy stitches. So I came up with a plaid sock.
First of all, I worked it out on graph paper. I played around with it until I got it like I wanted. Then I began to implement it.
Now I am no stranger to stranded (colorwork or fairisle) knitting. I know it takes longer to knit and it also tends to draw up the width more so than just knitting with a single yarn. BUT, OMG! This sock is labor intensive. I do like the results, but I don’t think I will be making this again. If I do I will only, repeat, ONLY do the plaid section on the top or cuff of the sock and only for a short distance.
Figuring out on paper where to change colors is so much different than the actual knitting of said colors. As I said, it is labor intensive. And I still have to write it up as a pattern and place said pattern in my store for sale.
After all this work, I certainly hope the pattern sells well.
Oh BTW, I call it Mens Plaid PIA Sox.
I’m a knitter, a sock knitter primarily. I just love to knit them and wear them. And, yes, I live in Florida. I wear socks year around.
Why? you ask. Well, I’ll tell you. First, it does get extremely hot and humid here. That includes the sand at the beach. That sand can blister your feet in seconds. Then you can give up walking for awhile. The sun can blister the tops of your feet while the sand takes care of the bottoms.
Second, this is the South. Air conditioning is used everywhere. I don’t mean just cool comfort from the heat outside. I mean freezing temperatures, walk-in freezer type temperatures in stores, theaters, homes, businesses, schools, etc. That cool blast feels pretty good the first few minutes you are inside, then you begin to get cold and that includes your feet.
Third, I make my socks with a wool blend sock yarn. Wool pulls moisture away from the skin so you don’t have that yukky, sticky, wet squishy feeling while wearing your socks.
So, I’ll continue to wear my socks year round…in Florida.
Berries in a Basket Socks
This is an easy pattern to do. Assumption is made that you already know how to knit socks. If not, check previous entries on my blog for more information on knitting socks. There are also numerous how-to videos on Youtube, including grafting the toe using the Kitchner stitch.
2 50/60 gram skeins of fingering/sock yarn (I used Deborah Norville’s Serenity sock yarn colorway Chili color #DN104-07)
Set of 5 US#3 double points (it is critical that you use 5 needles so that the pattern will be easy to follow)
Yarn needle for grafting the toe.
1. P2 K2 around
2. P2 K2 around
3. K2 P2 around
4. K2 P2 around
Repeat 1-4 above 4 more times (total of 5 times)
1. Knit 1 round even
2. K2 P6 around
3. Repeat row 2
4. Repeat row 2
5. Knit 1 round even
6. P4 K2 P6 K2 P2 around
7. Repeat row 6
8. Repeat row 6
Repeat rows 1-8 again.
FYI: Both patterns above work on a multiple of 4.
Gauge: 7 stitches to the inch and about 10 rows to the inch
Cast on 64 stitches using your favorite cast on method and divide evenly over 4 needles (16 stitches on each needle).
Join and K2 P2 around for a total of 10 rounds.
Do Berry pattern.
Then do Basket pattern.
The leg can be increased in length by repeating either of the patterns above or both.
From here to completion of the sock use your preferred method for the heel flap, turning the heel, gusset stitches, foot and toe.
Repeat for second sock.
I love the colorway of this yarn, but photographing it was a PIA!
….and then I am officially retired. I can hardly wait.
I’ve been working since I was 16 years old. During my high school years I did summer jobs and holiday jobs. When I graduated from high school I went to work full time at the home office of Holiday Inns in Memphis as a receptionist. I advanced to a secretarial position in the Treasury Department of Holiday Inns, typing spreadsheets and balance sheets, etc.
I got married while I was there. Still married to the same guy, BTW. We lived in an apartment to begin with, then moved to some property with a trailer.
When my dad died, my mom decided to move to Florida. Hubby and I were going through a rough patch at the time. So we decided to move with her. Start new, start fresh. It wasn’t long after we moved, that mom got sick. She was finally diagnosed with terminal cancer. We lived with her until she died, less than 6 months from the time she was diagnosed.
After she died, I went back to school for nursing. I had been impressed by the care she had received at the hospital. I didn’t work during this time, although you could call going to nursing school work. It wasn’t easy. I passed my boards and went to work at a local hospital.
I’ve worked at 2 hospitals, a doctor’s office and a nursing home during this time. Now I’m almost 62, next month I’ll be 62. I’m tired, tired of working, tired of having to make a living, tired of working at the whim and command of others. It’s time to do things I want to do, when I want to do them. Go to bed when I want and get up when I want.
Oh don’t worry, I’ll have enough to keep me busy. I have enough yarn and fabric and books to last 3 lifetimes. And I can pinch pennies with the best of them. I’ll save for little trips to far away places…well maybe not so far, but still a trip nonetheless. I also plan to do some yearly volunteer work at our local Fair. That’s only 1 week a year. I think I can handle that.
So what plans have you got for retirement?
Yesterday was my first day of retirement after working all nite. So I slept off and on all day. Today is my second day of retirement and I have things to do regarding 401K’s.
If you can knit socks, you can knit these basic, easy footies.
1 set of 5 US 3 double pointed needles
1 50 gram skein of sock yarn solid color (I used Bernat Sox Sock yarn)
1 50 gram skein of sock yarn self striping (again Bernat Sox Sock yarn)
Tapestry or yarn needle for grafting the toe
Gauge: 7 stitches to the inch, 9 rows to the inch
C/O – cast on
K – knit
P – purl
Sl – slip
PSSO – pass slipped stitch over
DP – double pointed
CC – contrast color (solid)
MC – main color (stripes)
tog – together
PU – pick up
Using size 3 DP needles C/O 60 stitches with CC and divide evenly over 4 needles (15 stitches). Join and begin K1, P1 rib around. Repeat for a total of 7 rounds.
Join MC, and S1, K1 across the next two needles …onto one needle so that you are working back and forth on one needle while doing the heel flap. Turn
S1, P across the needle.
Repeat these two rows until you have completed a total of 30 rows.
Turn the Heel:
Set up row: K 20 stitches. S1, K1, PSSO. Turn
a. S1, P10 stitches, P2tog. Turn
b. S1, K10 stitches, S1, K1 PSSO. Turn
Repeat a and b above until all stitches have been worked.
K across the 12 stitches
PU 15 stitches along the side and knit. You will have 15 + 12 stitches on one needle. This will be reduced in just a moment.
K across the next two needles.
PU 15 stitches along the next side and knit. AND knit 6 stitches from your first needle. You now have 21 stitches on needles 1 & 4 and 15 stitches on needles 2 & 3. Your starting/ending will now begin in the middle of the heel.
Reduce the Gussett Stitches:
K up to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1
K the stitches on the next two needles
K1, S1, K1, PSSO, K remainder of stitches
K even (no decreases)
Repeat the above 2 rounds until you have decreased the number of stitches down to 15 on needles 1 & 4.
K even until the foot of the sock measures about 6 inches from the PU stitches.
Needle 1. K up to last 3 stitches, K2tog, K1
Needle 2. K1, S1, K1, PSSO. K to end of needle
Needle 3. repeat needle 1
Needle 4. repeat needle 2
K one round even
Repeat above until you have 6 stitches left on each needle. Slip these stitches to 2 needles (12 stitches on each), making sure that your decrease stitches are on the ends of each needle. You will have to knit across one needle to get your yarn in position to graft the toe.
Using the kitchener stitch, graft the toe stitches. Work in all loose ends with your tapestry/yarn needle.
Repeat for other footie.
These are plain socks I knitted for my youngest son. When I knitted the Horseshoe Cable socks, he tried them on and found them to be comfortable (even though his foot is somewhat bigger than mine). So I knitted him a plain pair of socks…no fancy cables, etc.
Since I got 3 skeins and only needed 2 for the socks, I plan on making him a matching scarf.
I plan on making Tabi socks or toe socks for my oldest. He keeps insisting on plain black yarn instead of something colorful. I wonder if he will wear them if they are colorful…hmmmmm….
I usually prefer to knit, but a friend, Donna, who recently learned to crochet, wanted to learn how to crochet mittens. She has done so well, absorbing all kinds of techniques in the field of crochet. It’s amazing that only a few weeks ago, she never held a crochet hook in her hands. She is learning at a phenominal rate.
So Donna, this is for you.
How to Crochet Mittens
4 ounces of sock/fingering yarn
You will need three (3) measurements. (1) Measure around your wrist. (2) Measure from your wrist to your thumb joint, actually, the space between your index finger and your thumb. (3) And measure from your thumb joint to the tip of your middle finger.
We will begin with the cuff. With your G hook, chain 11.
SC (single crochet) in second chain from hook and in the remaining chains.
Chain 1 and turn. SC in the BACK loop of the last SC made and in each chain across (10 SC). This will give a ridged/ribbed look to your cuff. Be careful. It is easy to miss that first SC each time you turn to do your next row. Count your stitches. There should always be 10 SC.
Continue in this manner until your cuff reaches your wrist measurement.
Now bring the short ends up to meet each other. Slip stitch them together. If you wish to change colors, then cut the yarn and attach your new color. If not, then continue on with the same color. I changed colors so that it would be easier to see how the mitten is done.
I also used scrap yarn to mark the spot where each new round begins which you will notice in one of the pics below. Join your new color or continue with your same color. SC in each space BEFORE AND AFTER each ridge. So there will be 2 SC between each ridge.
Do Not join in the usual manner. You will continue with SC around as in a spiral. This round will also be your increase round. SC twice in the first SC of previous round, then SC once in each of the next 8 SC. Then SC twice in the next stitch, and SC once in each of the next 8 stitches. Continue in this manner until you have come back around to your marker.
SC in each stitch around continuously until your mitten has reached your wrist to thumb joint measurement.
To create the thumb opening, you will chain 4 or 5, maybe even 6, depending on the size of your thumb. Skip 4 or 5 or 6 SC in the previous round, and SC in the next stitch. (I chained 4 as I have small hands.) If in doubt as to the size of your thumb, stick it in the opening to see how it fits.
Continue to SC in each stitch around until the piece reaches from your thumb joint to just within 1/2 inch or less of your middle finger. If you want very roomy mittens, continue around until the piece equals your 3rd measurement from the thumb joint to tip of middle finger.
Now it is time to begin your decreases. Keep in mind where your yarn marker is as you do each round.
To decrease, insert hook into next stitch and draw up a loop. Then insert your hook in the NEXT stitch and draw up another loop. You will have 3 loops on your hook. Bring your yarn over the hook and pull it through all 3 loops. You have just made 1 decrease.
SC in each of the next 8 stitches. Decrease again as described above. Continue around in this manner until you have come back around to your marker.
Do the next round even…No decreases.
At the beginning of the next round, Decrease, then SC in each of the next 7 stitches. Continue this around until you have reached your marker. Do the next round even.
Decrease, then SC in the next stitch. Decrease, then SC in the next stitch. Repeat this around to marker. This will make your opening at the top of the mitten small, about finger size.
Cut the yarn and thread it into your yarn needle. Slip the threaded needle through the stitches around and pull tight. Secure the thread by going through several of these tightly pulled stitches. Then slip it down through the center of the stitches and secure on the inside of your mitten. Yes, you will have to turn it inside out to do this. Cut the yarn leaving approximately 1 inch on the inside of your mitten. Turn your mitten right side out.
Now it is time to do the Thumb.
Attach your yarn to the bottom stitches. SC in each stitch. Make two (2) SC in the corner. SC in each of the top stitches. Make two (2) SC in the next corner.
SC around in a spiral as you did for the hand part of the mitten until the piece reaches the tip of your thumb.
Decrease in the next stitch. SC in the next one. Repeat around. Finish as for top of mitten. You know, cut your yarn, thread your needle, etc. Secure both on right side and wrong side. Weave in any loose ends.
This mitten can be used for either hand by “rolling” the mitten between your hands to adjust where the thumb placement is.
Make your second mitten.
I hope I have not thoroughly confused you.